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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.